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You do need to like the Bethesda style gameplay to enjoy Morrowind, if you don’t then you don’t enjoy this game as a game.
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So, there are good ideas, great atmosphere, but all of this extremely refined piece of a game is in the end empty inside when you look at it from a standpoint of someone who played, I don’t know, V:tM:B or Planescape: Torment.
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I’m obviously not counting Vivec, Dagoth Ur and the gang because that’s a whole another matter. Caius Cosades, Uncle Crassius (Curio), Divayth Fyr, some Telvanni magisters… Yeah, there are some folks that have personalities – when I think about it most of the high-end people from the factions have some, Archmage Trebonius is a famous derp, there are some interesting dynamics in the Mages Guild or the Fighters Guild… Problem is, there are hundreds of NPCs in this fucking game, and I think I could count the really fleshed ones out on both of my hands. In theory you do, contrary to some popular opinions, stumble across one or two amusing characters. Interesting NPCs are, well, in practice non-existent. Quests are very, very, very shallow when it comes to structure, even though some are thematically interesting (it tells much that House Telvanni quests are usually most entertaining). Game lacks depth in places where experienced players can and should expect it. However there is a huge but to all of this. Design is just flawless, and by that I mean all of the design that you stumble across - especially architecture. The world just oozes atmosphere if you can get just enough of a grip on the gameplay to survive, go on and not be in constant pain (which can be hard to do for someone raised on different type of games). Great Houses are, well, great, some other factions as well. It does have some good things in it, mainly good ideas and concepts.